Side Trip to Las Vegas, Nevada

SATURDAY 10 October

Another gorgeous day to drive. Out of the mountains into the lunar landscape of Utah.

Now that we have car CD capability, what we listen to: Ken Stringfellow solo, Posies, Chris Whitley solo, Nick Drake, Joy Division, Big Star, Yo La Tengo, Teenage Fanclub, Ride, new Buffalo Tom, and Elliot Smith's XO several times--general agreement that this is one great record. Music sounds good at 100mph in the salt flats.

9 hours later, the land of Lost Wages. What a monument to..........what?

Something big and sad and amazing and pathetic and wrong and amusing and sick and wrong and impressive and staggering and staggering around.


Barbery Coast, enormous rooms, excellent sushi at San Remo (Vegas fish?), mistaken for Billy Corgan, strolling the strip with Bob and Matt, weedeliver and ho-to-go, cardboard New York City, MGManic, drop Matt off--tucked in with a double shot--Bob and I head to the down town MALL?!? Wedding chapel a-go-go, recognized on the street by a couple moving to LA from Boulder who saw us this afternoon at Starvin' Arvin's in CO. What a tiny world. Seeing $10 million under glass.

Leave Bob to his work at the blackjack table. Quarter slots for me--up $30, leave breaking even. Back to the strip through the old (real) Las Vegas.

Dreams burn down........

On the Road to Los Angeles, California

SUNDAY 11th October

Bob out til 6am playing cards, apparently mistaken for Frank Black by a close-but-not-quite fan. Matt and I up early (well, 10am) to visit the Hoover Dam. Kind of a requisite pilgrimage if you're on a Bob Mould rock and roll tour--standing on the edge we am.....Bob will stay another day, Matt and I hit the road for LA. Stop for a snack at a roadside casino, I decide to throw away $20 on $5 slots. Nothing,nothing,nothing.........$150!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
Matt impressed--good to have a witness. We show incredible resolve and walk away.



For the rest of the day: ABSOLUTE TRAFFIC HELL.

Oh, now I remember living out here...At last we arrive in LA. Almost can't see the streets for all the ghosts.




Six years since I''ve been here and, to my great surprise, it really feels like a homecoming. I had no idea I had so much personal history invested here. After living five and a half years here, I guess it shouldn't be such a shock. I left here with nothing but the chance that Tommy would begin something for me. Now here I am, returning triumphant--at least in my mind--to this place. I feel a circle being completed. This is the town where I first began to take my music seriously. I finished my first song here on Curson and Rosewood (drove by there tonight). To return and play the Palace (where I stood at the very front of the stage and moshed involuntarily at an Iggy Pop show in the late 80's) with one of my heroes from that era is so indescribably perfect. Memories of the New Day Rising cassette on repeat play in my 69 Dodge Dart on the 405 Freeway.

How did I get to be so lucky? I'm amazed how good it feels to be here. Had dinner with my uncle, cousin and two of my oldest friends (and their wives and kids!??!!?!). Just the best evening.

So glad John and Steve are coming to the show. They probably understand better than anyone else just what this all means to me. New York is my theatrical home, but LA is where I bought my first electric guitar. Somehow I'd forgotten all that, but it's rushing back in waves. I feel so blessed and grateful to the Universe for bringing me all this.

Man, five hours in LA and I'm already getting all New Age............

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